Marfa, Texas | Zimmerman Travel Guide
I’ve wanted to visit Marfa, Texas for as long as I can remember.
Before artist Donald Judd relocated to Marfa from Manhattan in the ‘70’s, Marfa mostly held cowboys, flat land as far as the eye could see, and the army barracks that brought Judd Marfa’s way in the ‘40’s.
After World War II, Judd’s art career took him to NYC, but he quickly realized he needed space to display his 3D art. He chose Marfa, created the The Chianti Foundation, and transformed some of the old army barracks into museums for his art that still stand today, although he passed in 1994.
There is something mysterious and intriguing about Marfa. It’s in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by red dirt and tumbleweed, but totally filled with art. And not just visual art, but everything from the food to the accommodations are stunning and purposeful.
When I was in the wedding world, I loved really formal table settings surrounded by the rustic beams of an old barn, or a more earthen and minimalist aesthetic in the midst of marble and traditional architecture. The juxtaposition of the two disparate elements makes both more beautiful and special.
Marfa is the same way. It looks like a rundown ghost town, except for a few blocks that are bursting with life, art, and incredible and creative makers.
Part of what makes Marfa so special is how elusive it is. Unless you have a private jet (like Beyonce, who has visited in hers,) you have to fly into El Paso, then rent a car and drive three more hours to get to Marfa. You really have to want to go to Marfa. It’s not somewhere you’ll just come across on your way to somewhere else.
When we found out our plans to spend almost a month in Carlsbad, NM were going to have to change because the whole state was shut down due to a spike in Covid-19 cases, I looked at what we could do nearby.
Lo and behold, we were fewer than three hours away from Marfa! This was my chance!
We packed up the airstream and headed to Marfa, and it was totally worth it! You can watch our travel video in Marfa here.
Where to stay:
If you’re a home on wheels… well… specifically an airstream, you can stay in this very rare “airstream only” resort. Marfa is heavy on aesthetic, y’all. But I kind of love it.
If you want the same “airstream” vibe, but don’t have your own home on wheels, check out El Cosmico!
You can rent a vintage camper to stay in, or you could also pick a tepee or yurt. So many artsy options for you.
Finally, if you want more of a traditional stay, there’s a hotel in the middle of the action with all the modern amenities, Hotel Saint George.
Most Instagramable Spot:
Prada Marfa is an essential stop about 30 minutes outside Marfa and looks best at sunrise or sunset. It’s a tiny Prada store. With real merch. Except it’s an art installation, not a store.
Check out all my favorite selfie-worthy spots here.
Where to eat:
I’m pretty serious about food. It’s one of my most favorite things to experience in a new city, so I don’t recommend it unless it’s great!
Breakfast
Marfa Burrito
Stripes (Laredo Taco Company) Do not let the fact that this is inside a gas station dissuade you from checking it out. This is where everyone from construction workers to suit and ties come for breakfast. Oh, and it’s Anthony Bordain approved!
Lunch
Wienertown
Dinner
The Capri
LaVenture
Dessert
Ranch Candy
Where to drink:
Cocktails
Lost Horse Saloon
Bar Saint George
Coffee
Frama Coffee
Playground:
If you’re like me and visiting with kids, you want to find a playground. Good news! There is one right by downtown, on the corner of West Oak and Highland.
My Stop-worthy Souvenir:
Marfa has truly so many souvenir options. You almost can’t go wrong.
I bought this coffee table book of the work of Donald Judd.
Where to shop + What to buy:
Cobra Rock
Marfa Soap
Esperanza Vintage and Art
Wrong Store
Communitie Marfa
Get Go
6Whiskey
Raba Marfa
Garza Marfa
City's best view:
I cannot over-communicate how flat the land is here. So you’re not going to hike to a great view. But I did capture a great shot with my drone, and there are of course Instagramable stops everywhere you look.
Must see:
The Chinati Foundation. Even though everything is art in Marfa, you really need to check out where it all started and see some of Judd’s work.
Also, go see the Marfa Lights! In Marfa, there is basically no air pollution or light pollution, so the sky at night is pitch black, and you can see the stars so brightly and clearly.
The official Marfa Lights Viewing Area is located 9 miles east of town on Highway 90, towards Alpine. Bundle up and lay back! You won’t be disappointed.
Grocery Store:
If you need to grab some essentials or want to make your own meals, check out Blue Water Natural Foods in Alpine, TX.
This trip was a dream come true for me, after years and years of wanting to visit Marfa. And it just goes to show that my mentality of “this is happening for me not to me helps even when coming across changes in travel plans.
Catch up on all our airstream adventures here!